San Donato in Poggio - Chianti, Tuscany
A small village listed among the 300 most beautiful villages in Italy
What is the story behind San Donato?
San Donato is a little medieval village on top of a hill a few minutes from the road connecting Siena and Florence, roughly halfway between the two cities. We are in the Chianti region, and the road leading to San Donato, Greve, and Castellina in Chianti is one of the most beautiful and fascinating in the Tuscan wine region, with its endless rows of vineyards that seem to follow one another indefinitely, united with the green olive groves, dense bushland, farmhouses, and wineries.
The village is small, yet it has retained its charm and medieval past. The heart is still surrounded by the original and powerful defensive walls built in the 12th century, with a tower standing proudly at the western end. San Donato, despite its small dimensions, played an essential role in the centuries-long war between Florence and Siena.
San Donato came under the control of Florence in 1218, and its importance rose significantly when it became one of the stops on the road from Florence to Rome, as well as a point where people entering Florentine territory could change their currency.
Two peace treaties between the belligerent republics of Florence and Siena were signed right here in San Donato in 1176 and 1265, respectively; just 5 years before the second treaty, Florentine troops organized themselves just below the city to prepare the march that would lead to the famous battle of Montaperti.
The battle represented a significant defeat for the Florentine people, therefore San Donato and the surrounding territories were later ravaged. The peace treaty, signed in 1265, failed to last long.
Toward the end of the 14th century, the primary pilgrim and commercial route of the period was traveled through the neighboring towns of Tavarnelle and Barberino, which is why the importance of San Donato began to gradually fade.
What's there to see?
One of the main entrances to the city is through the "Porta Fiorentina" (so named because it connects to Florence), which is located on the north-western outskirts and connects to the main street, via del Giglio, which has crossed San Donato since the 12th century. In addition to the brilliantly renovated stone and brick structures, just before reaching the main square, you will discover the famous Bell Tower, which is the remains of the original tower dwellings.
The imposing Palazzo Malaspina dominates one of the square's corners, with the Gothic church of Santa Maria della Neve next to it, which, with one of its side naves, overlooks the square, which has an octagonal well in the center, a symbol of its importance during the siege, when it was the city's only water supply. On the other side, there is the Praetorian Palace, which has unfortunately lost its medieval aspect over time and is certainly less imposing than the Malaspina Palace.
As you continue to exit the "Porta Senese" door in the eastern part of the walls, you will come upon the Pieve di San Donato, San Donato's main church. According to some papers found, it was built in Romanesque-Tuscan style and appears to have been completed in 989. The terracotta baptismal font with enamels by Giovanni della Robbia dates back to 1513.
Arrivederci, (‘til we meet again)
Mic e Simo
